FAQ #1

How do I maintain a marine aquarium properly?

 Q…….My aquarium just doesn’t look that good anymore!!

It has slowly deteriorated over the past few months !!!  What’s the problem??????

This is an all too common question and one with no simple straightforward answer. Most aquariums suffer this problem periodically, ….   So what to do???

Answer!!!!…  Let’s check out a few possibilities..

By John BEE, Managing Director Coral Plantations

A water-change may be well over-due??:  Generally for a large (established) tank (e.g. 500L or more) a water change about once every 3-5 weeks is adequate. For smaller aquariums or those not well stabilised (say less then 6 months old), water changes more often are suggested. Generally little and often is the best.  A 10% water change as often as possible (even weekly) may be desirable, especially on the much smaller tanks.

Associated problems with changing water:

1.      Water too cold: In winter be careful not to shock the system by changing too much water with cold water.. It shocks the whole system… let your water warm up for a day or two in the sun or indoors before doing the water change.  In summer do about 20-30% each change. In winter if the water is markedly colder reduce this down to about 10% maximum

2.     Changing the chemical parameters. If you have spent the past month or so getting your pH, KH, calcium, strontium and iodine levels just right, then you have to start again.  Most water changes can dramatically lower the KH (carbonate hardness) level particularly…. So, after a water change, consider testing the water again for KH, pH, and calcium and adding chemicals accordingly. Remember that the KH generator powder is great for increasing the pH and KH levels but NOT the calcium.

 It’s also good time to dose again with strontium and iodine & that should be done weekly.

Nitrate levels may be way too high??  This generally means “overfeeding” The long-term build up of nitrates and other nutrients (e.g. phosphates) often occur over time and from over-feeding (especially with high nutrient foods such as frozen foods and liquid coral foods).  

Fish can tolerate reasonable levels of nitrate BUT many invertebrates and corals CANNOT. For fish up to 100ppm (or more) is acceptable --BUT- for reef invertebrates, (including corals) less than 20ppm is essential

Associated problems of high nitrate levels:

1.      Build-up of red or green Cyanobacteria (slime mould). These bacteria can be toxic to an aquarium and have the ability to over-take and kill your system.  It also has the ability to synthesise nitrates from nitrogen gas dissolved in the water, which exacerbates the excess nitrate problem.

2.      Water changing for nitrate reduction can be misleading   If your levels are say 100+ppm nitrate and your target is less than 20 PPM, then a 1/3 water change will only reduce the nitrate level accordingly; i.e.1/3……. therefore doing at least several water changes close together will be necessary to get the level down to acceptable levels

3.      Reducing the nitrate levels only solves the high nitrate level – Not the cause .  The cause might be over-feeding, lack of denitrification bacteria and even high nitrate levels in your water-change or top-up water

The water has become too salty?? Salinity creep is a common problem with marine aquariums, even though the tank may have been regularly topped up with fresh water to replace the evaporated water.  Salt water collected in-shore is saltier than normal, often as high as 1.025 (optimum is around 1.022).  Consequently, every time a water change is made the salinity creeps up. SO, during every water change, check the salinity with a hydrometer and add additional fresh water as needed.  NOTE: Allow a good time (like 30min) for the fresh and salt water to mix properly before testing each time.

Associated problems of water too salty:

1.      Fish health suffers at high salinity.  Fish in particular do not do well if the salinity is too high (e.g. 1.025) and generally their health is better at slightly lower then normal salinity (reduces parasites).

2.      Too high salinity can kill a tank.  If the salinity reaches very high levels through salinity creeping up over time, it can kill numerous organisms in the aquarium “including” the bacteria; and can “crash” the system. (too hot water can also cause this)

You may not be adding enough essential supplements??  It is important to maintain adequate levels of calcium (and strontium) and carbonates in the water to allow natural calcification by corals and invertebrates to make their calcium carbonate skeletons.  Other organisms such as the lovely pink Coralline algae and the plant Halimeda also need calcium.  The addition of strontium in moderately large amounts and iodine in small quantities has also shown to be highly beneficial in a closed marine reef system.

Associated problems of not enough supplements:

1.      Low levels of carbonate and calcium are common in seawater. Because local seawater and some of the synthetic salt mixes are low in carbonate hardness and sometimes calcium, you need to test for and adjust accordingly after each water change.

2.      Coral growth will suffer from low levels. Some corals and even coralline algae may cease to grow and even die if the KH and calcium levels are very low for some time.

Your lights may not be functioning properly.  This generally means not enough light or old bulbs.  Light bulbs need to be of adequate intensity and the right wavelength for optimum coral growth.  With time both the intensity and the wavelength change (for the worse); and increased algae growth and decreased coral growth are the end results.   One of the first questions asked when increased algae growth is a problem is “how old are your bulbs”……  because after 6 month the deterioration in intensity and wavelength are noticeable and bulbs/tubes should be changed at least annually

Associated problems with inadequate lighting:

1.      Avoid sunburn. Take care when replacing old bulbs with new ones.  The increased intensity is likely to be so great that if care is not taken, considerable sunburn of the coral will occur. Temporarily raising the lights – for a few weeks &/or reducing the hours for a while &/or screening the corals with fly screen ALL work.

The number of algae eater may be inadequate?? This means algae growth is out of control.  Excess algae growth can soon smother other (desirable) growth changing the appearance from a vibrant looking aquarium to a dull lifeless one.  This change is gradual and is usually noted by someone who hasn’t seen your aquarium for a while.  TAKE HEED.   IF action isn’t taken quickly the set-up can quickly pass to a point of almost non-return. 

This is usually caused by a combination of problems including excess nitrates, old lights and death of algae-eaters such as snails/shells, hermit crabs and maybe even a few algae eating fish.

Check out the web site for algae eaters

Associated problems with inadequate algae eaters

1.      Adding more algae eaters is NOT likely to solve the problem UNLESS this is combined with a good water change to reduce high nitrate levels.

2.      Algae eating fish such as tangs/surgeons, rabbitfish and dwarf angels will only eat certain types of algae… and only if they are hungry.  “Overfed fish” are of no benefit in keeping algae growth under control.

3.      Out-of-control (and excess) algae may need to be removed by hand as much as possible to give the new algae eaters a chance to control it. Hermit crabs (small) and trochus shells are good eaters to add. .. so are rabbitfish.

The water pumps may not be not working or need servicing?? . This really means “not enough water flow’   Water pumps need regular servicing and generally the more hi-tech the pumps the more often servicing is needed. This is due to the high volume of water moved and the chances of calcification on/in the pump itself.

Associated problems with pump problems:

1.      Regular servicing essential.  Tunze Turbelle streams pumps need to be back flushed every month or so, and taken apart and fresh water rinsed every couple of months (very quick & easy).  Aqua Medic Ocean Runners need to be taken apart every few months to check the washers on the impellor shaft for wear, and also fresh water rinsed.  Other pumps need to be checked at least every 6 months.

2.      Mimic nature with water flow.  For good coral growth, we need to mimic the rough and tumble seen on the reef around most corals. This high water flow not only brings in particulate food for the corals BUT ALSO removes unwanted by-products and residues such as oxygen in the day-time and carbon dioxide at night-time.  A rule of thumb for most marine reef systems is a minimum of 20 times an hour water flow circulating.  i.e. for a 500-litre tank, a minimum of 10,000 LPH water flow is needed in the tank. and it needs to be turbulent flow… NOT laminar flow(round & round).

Corals may be dying from lack of food or light.??/ This really indicates several problems.  Corals will starve to death, leaving a forest of skeletons.  Lack of food is generally the problem… from either inadequate light (too little) or lack of solid food for the macro feeders

Check out the web site for feeding corals

Associated problems with lack of food or light:

1.         Hard/high-light corals placed deep in a poorly lit tank will start to die off quickly if supplementary ‘”solid food” is not given too them.  The Solution (if not too late) is to increase the available light and start solid feeding.

2.         Other major reasons for coral dieback include

a.      High nitrate levels

b.      Low carbonate hardness levels

c.      Smothering from algae growth

d.      Aggressive corals nearby killing them

e.      Coral eaters in the system, including boring clams, fish, shells/snails and crabs.

The water temperature may be too hot or too cold?? This generally means the heater or chiller is not working properly.  The normal temperature range for a reef system is 24-28C. Above or below that can and does cause problems.   The tolerance is far less on the high side. i.e. serious and long lasting effects are more likely to be seen by several degrees higher than this rather than several degrees lower. 

Associated problems with abnormal water temperature

1.         Bleaching of corals and anemones, disintegration of starfish and urchins and excessive algae growth are common symptoms of too high a water temperature.  If the tank experiences very hot water conditions death of coralline algae and the microbial/ bacterial life can actually cause the whole system to “crash”.  Beware of hot water

2.         Inactivity and death of fish is a common problem of cold water

3.         Contrary to popular belief, a heater set at say 24C does not stop it getting above that temperature (it only heats – not cools); and visa versa, a chiller set at 26C does not stop if falling below 26C (it normally only cools). Most marine systems need both a heater and chiller for optimum performance.

Here endeth the epistyle

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FAQ #2

Why do pH levels fluctuate in a saltwater aquarium?

(and what to do about it )?

It is normal in a marine/reef aquarium set-up for the pH to fluctuate, particularly between day and night. 

The ideal pH in a reef system is between 8.2 and 8.5 or between 8.1 and 8.4 depending on what book you read.  I prefer the former; ….and should never fall below pH 8.0 or go above pH 8.5 at any time. 

Too high a pH (8.5 +) and too low (8-), reduces calcification by corals and other invertebrates with skeletons.  At higher pH calcium, magnesium and probably strontium are precipitated as the solid carbonate forms.  At lower pHs there is generally less available calcium and carbonates in the water for the calcification process to occur (by any organism that lays down a calcareous skeleton, and this includes calcareous algae).  Natural pH fluctuations occur in the reef system due to photosynthesis activity by organisms using light for growth.  

During daylight photosynthesis occurs which removes dissolved CO2 from the water (raising the pH) and at night CO2 is released as carbonic acid that reduces the pH.  A small variation in pH is said to increase the rate of calcification but significant pH fluctuations have the opposite effects.

Several methods exist to reduce the severity of pH fluctuation.

The most notable are

1.       by increasing the alkalinity/buffering capacity or the water;  by adding carbonate hardness to at least dKH8.5 / 150ppm; (using either carbonate , hardness generator, sodium bicarb or Kalkwasser) 

2.      by setting up a reverse lighting system in the sump, filter system or refugium and using algae such as caulerpa, with or without deep sand or mud. This concept also greatly aids in nutrient export if harvested regularly.

It is also not uncommon for pH to gradually fall over time in an enclosed system as a result of accumulated (1) nitrates and (ii) phosphates. 

Accumulated nitrates and organic acids decrease the pH by their acidic nature as well as lowing the alkalinity/buffering

Accumulated phosphates lower the alkalinity/buffering by precipitating compounds out of solution, in conjunction with calcium and magnesium carbonates. 

One activity that helps to keep the pH high is the denitrification process (by bacteria breaking down the nitrates to gaseous forms).  This releases carbonates and bi-carbonates, which in turn increases the alkalinity/buffering.   This occurs in anoxic /low-oxygen conditions such as inside live rock, in porous rock-balls and in deep sands beds (especially with a plenum).

Adding additional carbohydrates into the water aids the denitrification process (e.g. the vodka method, & the Kalkwasser/vinegar method- or calcium acetate). 

Phosphates can be also removed by phosphate absorbing material, the use of Kalkwasser, setting up an algae filtering tank and by using a protein skimmer.

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FAQ #3

My nitrate levels are always about 20 ppm; and I cannot get them lower;

is that a serious problem…..??

Opinions on this are changing

(and at the risk of enraging some purists)

Once it was said, quite categorically, that nitrate levels should be kept below 5 ppm for good coral and reef life invertebrates health but that fish could tolerate considerably more.  Nitrate is the end product of the bacterial “nitrification” process

This concept is still true but the maximum “acceptable” nitrate level for invertebrates has been raised considerably in the light of common sense and findings that demonstrate that many beautiful looking reef aquarium systems can exist permanently with nitrate levels of 20 ppm or even slightly higher……..  if other requirements of light, water-flow, chemical levels  etc etc are adhered too.

There are many examples corals thriving in areas close to shorelines; where run-off water carries nitrates (and phosphates) out to sea into the reef system from natural soil erosion and agricultural pollution.  Many corals can and do grow faster in higher nitrate regimes

One excellent reference book covers this aspect, and others, in detail and is recommended reading for the keen reefer, namely ”The Reef Aquarium, Volume 3 Science, Art and Technology” by Charles Delbeck and Julian Sprung

To quote the above authority

The principal disadvantage of higher nitrate levels is the effect nitrification has on alkalinity and pH.  The formation of nitrate depletes the alkalinity in a closed system through the release of protons (H+) in the conversion of ammonia to nitrate.

In addition, nitrate-stimulated growth in corals also causes greater usage(removal) of calcium from the water but can lead to a less dense structure due to rapid growth. 

If high nitrate levels are maintained, it is especially important to observe the calcium and alkalinity levels in the aquarium. Use of calcium and alkalinity effectively counters the depletion of calcium and alkalinity.

It has also been proposed that the high nitrate levels might necessitate higher additions of iodine for corals or other creatures that utilise iodine.  This hypothesis has not been tested

Where do nitrates come from

·          From any thing living.. broken down by nitrifying bacteria to ammonia and then to nitrite then to nitrate (and this includes dead animals, excess food etc, rotting vegetation etc)

·          From water used for water changes and top-ups

An interesting point made by the above author is:

Nitrate can also be synthesised by cyanobacteria (red slime mould)- called nitrogen fixation, using a similar mechanism where legume plants fix nitrogen from the atmosphere using nitrogen fixing symbiotic bacteria.

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FAQ #4

How important is carbonate hardness

Low carbonate hardness can stop coral & invert growth

There is so much written about alkalinity or carbonate hardness in marine aquariums systems that one gets very confused……. and you can do your own goggling for these if you’d like to. 

Carbonate Hardness (KH) measures just the carbonates and bicarbonates while Alkalinity measures those elements and a few others.  However we generally use the terms as one for convenience.

Whatever, calcium plus carbonate is formed in nature by marine inverts such as corals both hard and soft, shells and clams, crustaceans and the like, and calcareous algae/plants (such as Halimeda and coralline algae)  into relatively insoluble calcium carbonate.

For “things” that lay down a calcium carbonate type of skeleton they must have access to both calcium and carbonate.  Many times the calcium level is approx OK, and also because strontium and magnesium can be used in its place to combine with carbonate. (Aragonite / coral skeletons contains not only calcium carbonate but also considerable strontium carbonate and some magnesium carbonate). 

So, carbonate is extremely important and is needed in relatively large quantities where fast growing calcium-demanding “things” are growing. If not enough is available, then reduced growth and eventual death WILL occur, especially in hard corals and coralline algae.

Please, do NOT  under estimate the need of and the importance of carbonate hardness in your marine aquarium.

How to get that much needed alkalinity/carbonate hardness (KH)

1.    Carbonate hardness generator - contains a spectrum of hardness compounds including sodium bi-carbonate, soda ash and borates.  In salt water it is much more effective than sodium bicarbonate or baking soda.  It is both cheap and effective, and the effectively keeps pH up .

2.    Kalkwasser – usually made by dissolving Ca(OH) / hydrated lime in water.  The good thing about kalkwasser is that it will supply calcium and as well as keeping the alkalinity level and the pH stable.  Often mixed with vinegar for better effects.

Sodium bi-carbonate - not as effective as the KH generator but works well if used in a 2 or 3 part dosing regime

FAQ #5

What supplements should I dose my tank with  & how often

Normally we dose with four mineral additives only; namely calcium, strontium, iodine and carbonate hardness.

CALCIUM

Calcium is the major building block of corals, shells and other invertebrates such as shrimps, sea urchins and crabs.

The levels of calcium in seawater ranges from about 350 ppm upwards to 500 ppm or more depending on location. The ideal level is at least 400 ppm and not more than 500 ppm

Natural calcium levels are higher in a coral/lime/shell-based environment such as in a coral reef situation or with correct tank substrate.  Salt water collected on the Gold Coast and many synthetic salt mixes tend to be low in calcium so it has to be added.

Only calcium-based substrates are recommended in marine reef aquariums; such as coral, shell and limestone/marble/calcium carbonate. (Silicate sand is NOT)

Calcium levels can be increased by several means such as adding calcium hydroxide, calcium oxide, calcium chloride and some commercial calcium additives.

Using calcium chloride is a fast way of increasing calcium BUT it can acidify the water and reduces alkalinity (pH buffering). If it is used it should be used in conjunction with correct amounts of sodium bicarbonate with the occasional addition of magnesium sulphate... Enthusiast reefers use the three part dosing regime using Randy’s #2 recipes.   (a separate brochure is available on this).

A very good method is the use of calcium oxide or hydroxide as it increases both the calcium and the alkalinity; slow & steady. The available forms of these chemicals are hydrated (garden) lime and lime oxide.  When mixed with water they both produce limewater, better known as KALKWASSER.

Kalkwasser has the added advantage of precipitating unwanted phosphates out of the water BUT this is less effective if the” white vinegar PLUS kalkwasser method is followed. Therefore if you are mainly interested in calcium then use the white vinegar method whereas if you are interested in both calcium and phosphate reduction DO NOT use vinegar   (a separate brochure is available on this) 

NOTE. Kalkwasser also adds some carbonate hardness BUT NOT when used with vinegar

The easiest method is generally using commercial calcium supplement as we do; at the rate of 5ml per 20 litres of water.  This  can be dosed regularly (say weekly) or after each water change BUT regular testing of the calcium levels is essential to ensure the levels DO NOT exceed 500 ppm.

STRONTIUM

Strontium is a significant minor element in seawater, usually found at about 8 – 10 ppm. Chemically it’s like calcium, and many organisms, especially invertebrates, use it in their skeletons, along with calcium and sometimes magnesium. Strontium can be used in place of calcium by corals for their skeletons, and may even produce faster growth.

It has also been shown that regular and double normal dosing of strontium greatly improves the growth of coralline algae.  This appears to be even more effective when good blue/actinic lighting is used to supplement the normal white light.

Some corals, especially some hard types are very dependent on adequate supplies of strontium

Overseas reports show that increasing the amount of strontium in the water 2-10 times above natural levels greatly increases the growths of some coral, especially the hard types

Because it is used in large quantities in a reef tank it could be dosed heavier than many recommendations of 2ml per 100 litres. In our tanks we dose weekly at about double that; i.e. 4-5 ml per 100 L weekly.

IODINE

Iodine is a trace or minor element found in seawater as about 60 parts per billion (< 1ppm)

Overseas workers found that iodine stimulates the growth of some soft coral species (e.g. Zenia) and helps prevent soft corals from crashing (losses). It also appears to be essential for a range of other soft corals such as Anthelia and Clavularia; and appears to be critical for the long term success of stony/hard corals

Other research has shown its importance in the

Ø       development of pigments, e.g. greens, reds and golden in corals, especially in Corallimorphs and anemones

Ø       expansion of Corallimorphs (disc anemones)

Ø       helping corals adapt easily to change in light

Ø       helping reduce “bleaching” effects caused by high water temperatures

Ø       proper moulting process of crustaceans

Iodine can be poisonous and must not be overdosed...

The normal dosage recommended is 2ml per 100 L weekly

CARBONATE HARDNESS (KH)

 Low carbonate hardness can stop coral & invert growth

 Carbonate Hardness (KH) measures just the carbonates/bicarbonates whist alkalinity measures those elements and a few others.  However we generally use these terms as one, for convenience.

 Whatever, calcium plus carbonate is combined in nature by marine inverts such as corals both hard and soft, shells and clams, crustaceans and the like, and calcareous algae/plants (such as Halimeda and coralline algae). The chemical formed is relatively insoluble calcium carbonate.

 For animals/plants that lay down a calcium carbonate type of skeleton they must have access to both calcium and carbonate.  However because strontium and magnesium can be used in calcium’s place to combine with carbonate, it is the carbonate component that is vital  

So, carbonate is extremely important and is needed in relatively large quantities where fast growing calcium-demanding animals/ plants are growing. If not enough is available, then reduced growth and eventual death WILL occur, especially in hard corals and coralline algae.

Please, do NOT under estimate the need of and the importance of carbonate hardness.

How to get that much needed alkalinity/carbonate hardness (KH)

1.  Carbonate hardness generator - contains a spectrum of hardness compounds including sodium bi-carbonate, soda ash and borates.  In salt water it is much more effective than sodium bicarbonate/baking soda.  Both cheap and effective and keeps the pH up.

2.  Kalkwasser -   Made by dissolving Ca (OH) AKA hydrated lime, or calcium oxide in water.  The good thing about kalkwasser is that it will supply calcium and help keep the alkalinity level – for pH stability.  (see the calcium section earlier).

 3.  Sodium bi-carbonate - Not as effective as the KH generator but works well if used in the 2 or 3 part dosing system with sodium chloride. (see the calcium section earlier).

-The easiest method for most people is to use the KH generator powder.  It is cheap, effective and also raises (and buffers) the pH at the same time.  We use about 1 level teaspoon pr 100L of water 2-3 times per week BUT if you do this enure the levels DO NOT exceed 200ppm KH or pH 8.5

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FAQ #6

How do I re-locate my marine aquarium; what is needed to be done??

By John BEE

Re-locating a marine aquarium can be a stressful event for both the owners and the inhabitants BUT if done logically it can be relatively low –stress.

There are not too many professionals who can do it properly so if you know the whys and wherefores yourself you can be forewarned and fore-armed when organising the event.  You may even choose to do it yourself if the tank is not too large or you have the energy and confidence.

Up to a 4ft or 5ft tank can generally be managed by yourself (with a big help from your friends and neighbours)  If you can get someone to actually move the tank and stand for you then it’s much easier as all you have to do is worry about moving the occupants.

It is a good idea to have your tank in as good a condition (health wise) before the move as is possible.

Here is a guide to how we do it.

Ø        There is normally no problem to hold the rock, substrate and livestock in open boxes for at least several hours.

Ø        The rock and substrate needs to be kept cool and damp (covered with wet newspaper using salt water) whilst livestock such as fish, starfish, shrimps crabs etc need to be in well aerated / well circulated salt shallow water.  (or in oxygen-filled fish bags)

Ø        Corals can he held in either very shallow salt water (removed earlier) or wrap gently in well moistened (saltwater) newspaper and store cool & moist (not saturated)

Ø        I'd keep at least 30-40 % of the original water for re-use..

One procedure I suggest is to

1.      Switch off all the lights and pumps and attachments (but could maybe leave the blue lights on to aid with visibility)

2.      Siphon off and keep about 1/4 - 1/3  of your water (for putting back into the tank after moving)

3.      Remove some more water for rinsing the rock in and wetting of newspaper

4.      Remove the rock and corals as gently as possible (avoid stirring up the water and loosing visibility)

5.      Place the corals in either very shallow salt water (removed earlier) or wrap gently in well- moistened newspaper (by saltwater)  and store cool & moist (not saturated)

6.      Rinse the rock thoroughly in the water (2) above  (maybe scrub if necessary) to remove detritus and excess algae on it

7.      Place the rock in boxes and cover with well moistened newspaper

8.      Then catch all the livestock (using two nets not one) and place in containers using some of the good water siphoned off earlier

9.      Once the livestock have been removed stir up the substrate like crazy to release all the detritus in it

10.  Remove the substrate rinsing it as you go along (that way you have continued to clean the substrate as you go along)

11.  Store the substrate in boxes; keep cool & moist... NOT saturated;

12.  Once the tank has been moved and setup replace the substrate and rock in the reverse order to removal

13.  Add in the stored original water and top up with fresh salt water ensuring the resultant SG / salinity is a round 1.022  Set up all the pumps, filters, and apparatus (not lights yet) and start the system running properly

14.  Allow the water to clear as much as possible (Leave for up to an hour if time permits)

15.  Place back in the corals as well as any snails shells etc

16.  To restock the fish, starfish,  crabs & shrimps etc , care must be taken to equalise at least the temperature of the two waters(and preferably the water quality as well)This can be done either by

1.      catching the fish and placing into a smaller container(but using the water they are in now) and sit that in the main tank for 20-30 minutes to equalise the temperature; whist at the same time mixing the waters; or

2.      removing most of the water in the fish containers and slowly adding the new tank water (using small bore air hose) into the fish holding container(s) until at least one complete water change has occurred (place excess water back into the tank). Then catch the fish and place into the newly set-up tank

The lights can be put on when convenient but it might be worthwhile leaving the inhabitants at least half a day or overnight to recover before putting them on again

Another procedure, even more thorough, is to

1. Siphon off and keep about 1/4 - 1/3  of your water (for putting back into the tank after moving)
2. Remove some more water for rinsing the rock in and wetting of newspaper
3. Remove the rock and corals as gently as possible (avoid stirring up the water and loosing visibility)
4. Place the corals in either very shallow salt water (removed earlier) or wrap gently in well moistened (saltwater) newspaper and store cool & moist (not saturated)
5. Rinse the rock thoroughly (maybe scrub if necessary) in the water (2) above  to remove detritus and excess algae on it
6. Place the rock in boxes and cover with well moistened newspaper
7. Thoroughly gravel siphon the substrate taking the water level down to about 1/3 full (avoid stirring up the water and loosing visibility)
8. Then catch all the livestock (using two nets not one) and place in containers using some of the the good water siphoned off first....
9. Continue to siphon the subsisted in an attempt to clean it as mush as possible (that way you have have continued to clean the substrate as you go along)
10. When only a little water is left, stir up the substrate like crazy to release the remaining detritus and
11. Remove the substrate rinsing it as you go along (that way you have have continued to clean the substrate as you go along)
12. Store the substrate in boxes; keep cool & moist... NOT saturated;
13. Once the tank has been moved replace the substrate and rock in the reverse order to removal
14. Add in the stored original water and top up with fresh salt water ensuring the resultant SG / salinity is a round 1.022  Set up all the pumps, filters, and apparatus (not lights yet) and start the system running properly
15. Allow the water to clear as much as possible (Leave for up to an hour if time permits)
16. Place back in the corals as well as any snails shells etc
17. To restock the fish, starfish,  crabs & shrimps etc , care must be taken to equalise at least the temperature of the two waters(and preferably the water quality as well)This can be done either by
    • catching the fish and placing into a smaller container(but using the water they are in now) and sit that in the main tank for 20-30 minutes to equalise the temperature; whist at the same time mixing the waters; or
    • removing most of the water in the fish containers and slowly adding the new tank water (using small bore air hose) into the fish holding container(s) until at least one complete water change has occurred (place excess water back into the tank). Then catch the fish and place into the newly set-up tank

 The lights can be put on when convenient but it might be worthwhile leaving the inhabitants at least half a day or overnight to recover before putting them on again

 FAQ #7

What is Kalkwaser and why is it so beneficial

By John BEE

(GERMAN FOR CHALK WATER). AKA  lime water 

One of the most UNDER-RATED chemicals available for use in marine aquariums

A detailed reference;    for the chemistry http://www.reefscapes.net/articles/breefcase/kalkwasser.html

Kalkwasser" is an old method developed for waste water treatment.  Peter Wilkens discovered its incredible benefits for coral reef systems several decades ago.

Ø      A saturated calcium hydroxide solution (calcium + hydroxide ions

Ø       Supplies calcium (one of several trued and proven methods to add calcium to a marine reef system). The calcium ions can combine with dissolved CO² to replenish dissolved calcium carbonate

Ø      Maintains some alkalinity; (carbonate hardness) by hydroxide ions combing with carbon dioxide

NOTE: If the "Kalkwasser" is the only method to produce calcium, a lack of carbonate hardness (KH) will occur. i.e.  additional KH generator powder needs to be added)

Ø      The hydroxide ions neutralise acids; preventing the loss of alkalinity; however if administered too fast it can actually deplete alkalinity, and actually cause a precipitation

Ø      An added bonus of KALKWASSER is its ability to precipitate phosphorus; this aids in algal control and assists the protein skimming

It can be used as “make-up water” to replace some or all of the evaporated water

When calcium hydroxide solution (Kalkwasser) is slowly dripped into your aquarium, it captures free carbon dioxide present in the tank water and converts it to Bicarbonate ions (KH hardness) - Ca OH2 + CO2) <==> Ca H2CO3

If you drip it in  too fast or if there is not enough carbon dioxide available in the water, the new bicarbonate ions will be converted to carbonate ions (causing snowing of calcium carbonate): Ca OH2 + H2CO3-) <==> Ca CO3) + 2 H2O

Too rapid addition of Kalkwasser may actually cause the Calcium and Alkalinity in your tank to go DOWN instead of UP:

MAKING & USING KALKWASSER (ON ITS OWN- no additives)

Ø      Can be made by using either calcium hydroxide (hydrated lime) or calcium oxide (burnt lime).  The end result is the same; we use hydrated lime ourselves

Ø      Hydrated lime dissolves with great difficulty; only about 1-2 g/ litre can be dissolved.  We add at least 2 -3 g /L (about a teaspoon) to be sure

Ø      Needs to be stirred vigorously for about 3-5 minutes to ensure the maximum is dissolved

Ø      Allow the milky solution to stand until all the lime in suspension principates (e.g. overnight)

Ø      Siphon off the clear liquid.  That is the KALKWASSER to be used

Ø      Slowly drip the kalkwasser into your tank.  (about 1-2 drips /second is OK).

We add abo